First full day of Joel and Ash. Finally my partner in crime was here to go surf with me, jump of rocks with me and run rocks on the bottom of the ocean. Well at least that’s what I thought we had planned. Or let me rephrase that..it’s what “I” had planned for me. The day started out like every other day. Sunny, warm, laying in the sand on the beach. But today we decided to head south a little bit. It was a pretty windy day and after checking Napili and deciding it was too cloudy we headed back South. We were chasing the sun and boy did we find it. We all we just doing our thing but today was a tad different. I started the morning off with a small surf session at Kannapali Point. Nothing epic, they were baby waves but it was just fun to get used to it all. No wetsuit, reef only three feet below you, and spongers everywhere. It was so windy thought that it would blow you down the beach before you could help it. Kai finally came and with that we were off to Honalua Bay for some more surf. We checked a few spots on our way North and they all had a little swell but Kai knew that the bay would be best. So we were on our way. It is a beautiful surf spot, pretty remote compared to the other one’s we checked out. There are a few surf breaks within the bay we started at The Point - I was pretty hesitant at first to paddle over there, but eventually I joined Joel and Kai. It was a fun day in the water that ended not so fun. Kai had taken me in a little to a spot called Middles. I would paddle over to him, then a set would come and I would have to paddle back out around The Point - my arms were toast. I caught a good right and with that one we all decided it was time to go in - Joel and I wanted to hit DT Flemings before it was time to head back for a family dinner. So with that right I milked it as far as I could. I knew it was reef all the way to the shore so I wanted to milk it all the way in - so I didn’t get it from the outside set that was pushing in behind me. It was a great ride, smooth, predictable, and no wet suit! It was defiantly the longest ride I’ve had in a long time. It just kept going and going and going. Back at home you have time to take a drop, bottom turn and if your lucky time to cruise. I made the second section and tried to turn left to head back to the center of the Bay. The second section was the swell that pushed in and let me tell you there was no way it was letting me take a left. I pulled out as soon as I knew I was too deep right. But pulling out meant I had to take it from the rest of the set behind me. I pulled out, paddled like hell and tried to turtle turn the NSP. I popped up in time to get a little more momentum and down again I went. With that swell I was washed into the rocks, heading towards what they call the “Death Cave”. Once the swell sucked back I tried to jump south and just get as far away from the cave as possible. I then saw Kai coming my way, that’s when I knew it was bad. Kai got closer and just as he was almost to me another outside swell hit. Great. You always want to try and get under the break if you can and when yours washing on rocks it’s a little tough but I knew that’s what I had to do. Kai screamed go under go under. I ducked under trying to keep the board from getting thrashed. With the force of that wave I was pinned in between two rocks. The boulders were just far enough apart for my leg to get jostled in up to my shin. Because it was jammed in there like an L I had to wait for the swell to pull me out, there was no way I could have done it. So with that I had to wait. I was held under for a few waves. My back bent over the boulder and my headed bouncing like a basketball against the rocks. With a few more tosses I was out. I jumped back on the board and paddled my little heart out. Kai was right with me the whole time and the set that had me pinned under water had pushed him into the cave. I didn’t know this until the next day but just knowing my mishap could have landed him in a worse situation kills me. But ya know things happen and I luckily with both of our comfort in the ocean, there was no panicking and we with my comfort and his knowledge of the Bay I knew we were fine. So as we got farther from the cave and we could think about our next move it was time to decide whether we go back out to the Bay and try again or just paddle into the next one. Just as Kai suggested we go back, he asked if I was okay. I was fine other than my legs stung like crazy. I figured I had banged them up a little in the tossle and it was the salt water just doing it’s We finally got there, at the time it didn’t’ seem like that long of a paddle but knowing the cove it definitely was. We got to the shore and had to climb our way up through the jungle a little to the road. By the time we got to the road my entire right shin to my toes were so beat red I couldn’t see anything. I couldn’t tell how deep it was but I asked Kai to tell me the truth and he said all the way to the bone. Crap. I sat on the side of the road while Kai ran to the car. We were far off from the car but he sprinted his way to my rescue. I sat on the side of the road just praying. I knew I was fine and I knew I needed stitches but I was honestly un easy being alone on the side of the road, bleeding everywhere and in my bikini. I repeated, Please Lord hold me close and let me be okay. I sat there praying that no one would stop, I didn’t want be a Gringo Hoalie. While Kai and I were paddling to the next cove my brother was in shambles on the shore. He knew what was going on but couldn’t see us after he saw me get pinned. He ran all over the bay and couldn’t find us, the local boys told him not to follow us in and to just wait. He finally ran back up to the car and Kai had just showed up. They loaded the car and came to get me. We poured some water on it and rapped in a towel and kept it tight with duct tape. We got to the emergency room and stitched me up. No tears were shed until the dude shoved the numbing needle into the gash. Wow was that painful. It wasn’t just once he tapped into the gash 5-6 times. Even though it sucked I’m glad he did because while he was putting in the narly large stitches I couldn’t feel a thing. These stitches are more like staples! I’m all stitched up and off to family dinner.

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